Review of quirky B&B and fabulous restaurant Field in Edinburgh. Appeared in Scottish Daily Mail on Wednesday, March 11.
By STEVEN DONN
AT the end of the hall, next to our bedroom, lies a painting of a young man, standing outside of what looks like a villa somewhere in rural Italy. Beautiful, mysterious and, even amongst numerous other works, it immediately catches the eye. It has presence.
The same can be said of our host, the rather intriguing Wallace Shaw, whose ‘Arthouse’ Bed and Breakfast in the rather more industrial surroundings of Leith we find ourselves in. ‘A friend painted that for me,’ he says but, before we can ask for a little more, we are ushered through to the rather splendid living room and a glass of Prosecco.
It transpires that Wallace has, in fact, just returned from a break in Italy, where he had formerly owned another B&B in Spoleto, an ancient city in the province of Perugia, which once repulsed an attack from Hannibal.
How he came to be in Leith, opening his current establishment in an apartment in the former Assembly Rooms a few years ago, seems to owe much to his sense of adventure or desire for change.
Another glass of Prosecco follows as Wallace provides some much-desired exposition to his life.
He was born in Glasgow and attended the city’s renowned School of Art before embarking on a career in fashion, working for the likes of Pringle – where he was the cashmere expert – before being headhunted by Donna Karan. He was based in New York and London, while travelling to the likes of South America and South-East Asia.
The influence – of both his work and travels – is clear to see in what is like no other B&B you are likely to visit. There are two bedrooms, one containing a chaise lounge. He mentions that he has met Barbra Streisand, although not in a boastful fashion, and one could almost imagine her draping herself over the couch, glass of bubbly in hand (if she fancied a trip to Leith, of course).
Pieces of art, presumably collected on his travels, adorn the place. Time would be needed to delve more deeply into the tale each one undoubtedly has. Yet, as welcoming and fascinating as Wallace is, of course, there is also a city outside to be discovered – or perhaps rediscovered.
Leith, itself, has changed immeasurably over recent times, with the Royal Yacht Britannia now providing a five-star visitor attraction at Ocean Terminal.
A stroll back towards the city also provides plentiful options in terms of where to eat and drink, with cafes and bars giving a continental feel. And Edinburgh is always well worth strolling through.
No matter how many times one may have visited, no walk through the city streets is ever the same. Some gem can always be uncovered.
And so it with Field, a restaurant to be found on West Nicholson Street, a short hop from Edinburgh University.
Although it is not a student crowd, Field is vibrant. There is a gentle bustling, a hum of activity and chatter without the place feeling overcrowded, and there is an atmosphere of comfortable indulgence.
Staff are immediately welcoming, enthusiastic and knowledgeable. Rich, aromatic coffee is immediately produced, along with the menus (it is a bitterly cold day), after which, the fun really begins.
Menu ingredients are seasonal, wintery and seriously tempting. The bread, which is light and packed with flavour, is baked on the premises and served warm. Starters are comfort food with a deluxe twist – oxtail ravioli, cleriac puree and pickled shimeji (£5.95) and Seared Scottish Scallops, Cinnamon Satay Sauce, Black Pudding, Peanut Tuile, Pomegranate (£8.50) make a decadent start to the meal.
Mains follow, with a maple glazed duck breast, duck fat savoy with pancetta, duck sausage roll and sweet potato fondant (£14.50) and the duo of game: grilled venison, pheasant, tarragon croquette, creamed brussel sprouts and a venison jus (£19.00). The meat is meltingly tender and perfectly cooked. The main course leaves you with the question: how is it possible to make the humble brussel sprout taste so good?
Maitre D’ Richard Conway, expertly matches wine to each course and dessert is no exception. His recommendations, not all of which are even on the menu, only serve to highlight the quality and sheer indulgence of the final course. And, as with the bread, everything is baked in house. It shows. Banana & Peanut Butter Opera Gateau with Nutella Ice Cream (£6.50) and Chocolate Fondant with Burnt Marshmallow Ice Cream (£5.95) make this a box of delights for the diner who likes to conclude on a sweet note.
Field say they pride themselves on providing you with an exciting dining experience with delicious food. Have they achieved this goal? Without a doubt.
The walk back down to the warm embrace of the Arthouse after dining is both pleasurable and pretty much required. The sun is coming down and it is easy to see why, after a lifetime of fashion and travel, Wallace chose to come here.
Edinburgh remains a place with beauty in abundance.
Wallace’s Arthouse Scotland: £120 double occupancy, £90 single occupancy (includes continental breakfast. Minimum reservation is two days) www.wallacesarthousescotland.com
Field restaurant: 41 West Nicholson Street, Edinburgh. Lunch & Pre-theatre menu, two courses for £11.95, three for £14.95, plus a la carte. www.fieldrestaurant.co.uk
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